Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
